Laurence Balterartist with cameras

Education / Filters

Choosing filters

Filters are the one piece of glass in front of every picture you make. A few do things software can’t. Most you can skip.

The ones that matter

  • ND (neutral density): long exposures, or wide apertures in bright sun.
  • Variable ND (VND): dial the strength instead of swapping filters. Cheap ones can show a dark “X” at the strongest setting and a colour cast, so favour a modest range (about 3–7 stops) from a reputable maker.
  • Circular polarizer (CPL): cuts glare on water and leaves and deepens blue sky, strongest at 90° from the sun. It costs one to two stops.
  • Infrared: see the infrared lesson.
  • Mist or diffusion: a soft glow around highlights. A style choice, not a necessity.

A UV or “protective” filter does nothing for image quality on a digital camera. Graduated ND is better done by blending two exposures in editing.

Getting the size right

Look for the Ø symbol and a number (for example Ø49) on your lens barrel or the inside of its cap: that’s the front thread in millimetres. Buy the filter for your largest lens and use inexpensive step-up rings on the smaller ones.

Magnetic systems keep a thin ring on each lens and let the filter snap on and off, which is fast when the light is moving.

A quality checklist

  • Neutral colour. Shoot a grey card with and without the filter and compare in editing.
  • Coatings that resist water and fingerprints.
  • A slim frame, so wide lenses don’t vignette.
  • Solid build: the filter is the one thing you screw to a good lens.

A system to look at

Freewell makes magnetic ND, variable ND and polarizing filters. Its V2 Magnetic Hybrid VND/CPL covers 3–7 stops and was listed at $149.99 in October 2026, with kits above that.

StatusFreewell is a new partner and a hands-on review video is on the way. I earn a commission on purchases through my link; judge it against the checklist above in the meantime.